TEXAS - If you mention a weekend getaway in Texas, the default answer is almost always: The Hill Country. And sure, Fredericksburg is lovely. But it has also become the Napa Valley of Texas—expensive Airbnbs, crowded tasting rooms, and a constant stream of bachelorette parties clogging up Highway 290. If you are stuck in traffic on I-35 trying to get there, you aren't relaxing.
But there is another version of Texas—the massive, wide-open, cinematic version that people dream about. It’s quiet, the stars are blindingly bright, and the cowboy hats are worn for work, not fashion. Skip the crowded wineries of Central Texas. This year, head west to the high desert and the "Hub of the Big Bend": Alpine.
Downtown Alpine offers a walkable, historic respite in the vastness of West Texas.
The "Anti-Tourist Trap": Alpine, TX
Population: ~5,800 Vibe: A college town in cowboy country.
While neighboring Marfa gets all the press for its high-art installations and celebrity sightings, and nearby Terlingua attracts the hard-core desert rats, Alpine sits comfortably in the middle. It’s a university town (home to Sul Ross State) sitting at a high elevation (nearly 4,500 feet), meaning it is often 15 degrees cooler than Austin or Dallas.
It doesn't feel curated for Instagram; it feels like a real, functioning Western town that happens to be surrounded by some of the most dramatic scenery in the United States.
Why Locals Go Here Instead
The real draw is that Alpine is the perfect "base camp" for the entire region. It is the gateway to the wilderness without the hardship.
- The Access: Locals prefer staying in Alpine because it has actual grocery stores, gas stations, and walkable streets, but it is still only an hour drive to the entrance of Big Bend National Park. You get the national park during the day, and a comfortable bed and a cold beer at night.
- The Quiet: It is far. It’s about a 6-hour drive from San Antonio. That distance acts as a filter. The day-trippers don't make it out here. The people in Alpine really want to be there.
- The Culture: It has a surprisingly deep cultural scene, including the incredible Museum of the Big Bend, which tells the history of this rugged frontier without the kitsch.
Affordable Luxury: How to Do It Right
Alpine offers a historic Western experience that feels upscale but costs significantly less than a Hill Country resort.
- Stay: The Holland Hotel. This historic gem has been anchoring downtown since 1928. It’s right by the train tracks (earplugs provided, though many find the rumble soothing), and the lobby feels like stepping onto a movie set.
- Eat: Reata. Yes, the famous upscale cowboy cuisine restaurant in Fort Worth actually started here. The Alpine location is the original; it feels more authentic, the steaks are just as good, and it is generally easier on the wallet than the city version.
- Do: Hike Hancock Hill right behind the university. It’s a relatively short, steep hike up to "The Desk"—an actual metal school desk dragged up there years ago. It offers the best sunset view of the town and the surrounding mountains.
The Local Secret
Everyone drives out here hoping to see the mysterious "Marfa Lights." But the real secret is the sky itself.
Instead of standing on the side of a highway hoping to see an unexplained orb, drive 30 minutes north of Alpine to Fort Davis and attend a "Star Party" at the McDonald Observatory. The skies out here are some of the darkest in North America. Looking through their massive telescopes at Saturn's rings or star clusters will change your perspective on the universe.
The Bottom Line: If you want wine tours and crowds, go to Fredericksburg. If you want to see what Texas actually looks like, go to Alpine.